Sibiu

Sibiu — Hermannstadt — was founded by Saxon merchants in the 12th century and was the political centre of Transylvania for most of the next 600 years. Today the old town is one of the best-preserved in central Europe, with three concentric squares (Piața Mare, Piața Mică, Piața Huet), the "eyes of Sibiu" rooftops that surprise every photographer, and the Brukenthal — the first art museum in the Habsburg Empire. The food and coffee scene has overtaken Brașov's.

Why come here

The base for the Saxon villages. Viscri, Biertan, Mălâncrav, Saschiz are all under 90 minutes' drive. The airport (SBZ) is fifteen minutes from the centre. And Sibiu itself rewards two slow days — the old town is small enough to walk, layered enough to keep noticing.

Things to do

• Sit a morning in Piața Mare and watch the city wake up over a coffee at M60 or Arhiva.
• Visit the Brukenthal Museum — the founding collection of Baron Samuel von Brukenthal, with Cranach, Memling and Rubens.
• Cross the Liars' Bridge in Piața Mică — legend says it cracks if you lie on it.
• Day-trip to Viscri — one hour east, Prince Charles' Saxon village, fortified church and a working bakery.
• Drive the Mărginimea Sibiului — twelve shepherding villages, the painted icons of Sibiel, cheese workshops.
• Eat at Kulinarium for fine dining in a 14th-century cellar, or Crama Sibiul Vechi for hearty Saxon-Romanian.
• In December, the Christmas market in Piața Mare is the most atmospheric in Romania.

When to come

May–June and September are the sweet spot. The Sibiu International Theatre Festival in early June is one of the largest in Europe — book months ahead.